Pasta with Greek Kima | No Meatballs

I might boil a door knob if I thought Maeve would eat it.  She’s an unpredictable sort who loves bananas one week only to systematically chuck every bit of banana off her highchair tray the following week. Her doctor assures me this is normal behavior and to avoid battles with food. Offer. Offer. Offer. That’s her advice and I do my best to follow it.

I will admit, however, I frequently find myself at a loss not knowing what to cook for dinner or lunch. I desperately cling to any shred of evidence demonstrating Maeve’s heightened interest in a certain food. This is the situation I found myself in a few weeks ago following a dinner party during which Maeve ate an inordinate amount of meatballs.

My child loves meatballs! I nearly sang it from the mountaintops, but I restrained myself. There was a complication. The meatballs for which Maeve showed such intense affinity were Greek meatballs made from a family recipe. I knew I needed that recipe. I wasn’t about to mess around with another type of meatball. Too many foods end up in the trash that way.

I went straight to the source. Well, this is not exactly true. I went straight to the wife of the meatball maker. During a play date shortly after the dinner party, I mentioned to my friend how much Maeve loved her husband’s Greek meatballs. I asked if I could have the recipe. She didn’t think it would be an issue and told me she would ask.

A few hours later, I received an email with the bad news. No meatballs. My friend told me the conversation with her husband was brief. It went something like this:

Wife: Robin would like your meatball recipe.

Husband:  Well, that’s too bad.

It stung, but I can’t say I was too surprised. I am a food writer. People aren’t always willing to share recipes with me. This is particularly true when it comes to family recipes. It doesn’t matter how desperate I seem or how many times I promise to keep a secret a secret. The family vaults are impenetrable.

Life went on and a few weeks passed meatball-free in our household. I practically forgot about the whole incident until I was wandering through the cookbook section of the library and saw this book. It’s a gorgeous book with some real heft. It’s the type of cookbook that is boundlessly promising with a elegant cover and a weightiness that feels so good in your palm. You just know it is brimming with inspiration. This wasn’t the first time I looked at this book.  A few years ago, my friend Nathan interviewed Chef Psilakis for Time magazine. They even killed and grilled a goat together! I nearly bought the book then, but somehow it fell off my radar as so many cookbooks do.

I stood there admiring the book for a moment in the stacks. I wanted to tear into it right away, but I couldn’t. Just as I started to flip through the pages, there was a tug at my pant leg.  A little redheaded fox was done with the library. It was time to go home.

Hours later after dinner, a bath, and bedtime stories, I finally got my chance to sit down with the cookbook. It was blissful and quiet. I dove in and was immediately hooked. This book isn’t just full of recipes, but stories as well. It’s my favorite way of exploring new foods and Chef Psilakis tells heaps of good stories about growing up in a Greek American household. He talks openly about his upbringing, his introduction to cooking and about each recipe and why it’s special. I was so fascinated I forgot about the meatballs.

Eventually, however, I made my way to the meatball recipe. I won’t lie. It looked superb, but the ingredient list was daunting. I took a deep breath and considered what tomorrow might look like for meatballs. I thought it might be possible until I noticed the recipe was characterized as “time consuming.” I didn’t read further. My evenings are complicated and often plagued by toddler meltdowns. It wasn’t going to happen. Besides, my the meatball madness faded over the course of several weeks. I didn’t feel so desperate anymore.

Instead, I found a recipe for a meat sauce (kima) that looked far more reasonable. It doesn’t cook in minutes, but most of the time spent making the kima is for the purpose of simmering it. I can think of no better way to spend your time than filling your house with the scent of slow cooked onions and meat in the most aromatic mixture of spices. Cinnamon? Nutmeg? Yes. That’s correct. You might think you have your standard meat sauce already. It’s the one you can cook up without looking at a book from a few tomatoes, spices, and some caramelized onions. That’s a good sauce. I know it is. This one is better. It’s different in that the flavors are sweet and tangy at the same time. And while a regular Bolognese sauce has the sweetness of the onions and possibly carrots, this sauce gets its sweetness from the spice mixture and a hint of sugar. Combine that with meat, fresh herbs, and vinegar, and you have a moutwatering dinner. Intoxicating, really. I might call this a new twist on your old Bolognese, but that would be sort of insulting. I’m sure Greek people eat kima all the time. It’s probably old hat. For me, however, it is new. I’m thrilled to have it in my arsenal.

I paired the kima sauce with penne, but you can pair it with what you like. In fact, I think it would probably be delicious over roasted potatoes as well. Maybe root vegetables? There are many possibilities and I would love to hear your thoughts.

I know you went into this thinking I was going to make you meatballs. I hope I didn’t crush your expectations. There isn’t much in this world that can replace a good hearty meatball, but this sauce is a hit nonetheless. And, Maeve’s verdict? You can see for yourself. I’m quite confident she forgot all about the meatballs.

Pasta with Kima
Makaronia me Kima
3 tablespoons blended oil )90 percent canola, 10 percent extra virgin olive oil)
1 Spanish onion or sweet onion, finely chopped
1 fresh bay leaf or 2 dried leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 and 1/2 pounds ground beef
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch ground nutmeg
Pinch ground cloves (optional)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 quarts water
1 (28 ounce) can plum tomatoes, crushed slightly, with all the juices
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1 pound rigatoni or penne
1/3 cup grated graviera cheese (substitute Jarlsberg)
Small handful torn fresh herbs such as dill mint, parsley, or rosemary
Warm a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat and add the blended oil.  Wilt the onion with the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks for 3 to 5 minutes without browing.  Add tgeh ground beef and brown thoroughly.  Add the spices and tomato paste; stire for a minute or two.  Add the water, tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, 2 tablespoons salt, and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer for 60-65 minutes.  Skim off any sum that rises at the geginning.  Later on, skim off the fat once or twice.  Remove the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks.  The sauce should be meatey with lots of juice.
Cook the pasta, drain, and toss with the kima (meat sauce).  Scatter with graviera and fresh herbs.

Adapted from How to Roast a Lamb

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16 Comments

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    This sauce sounds incredible. I’ve seen this book but never got around to really looking through it. After this description it just went on my next Amazon order. In fact I’ve been looking for just such a thing recently- thanks for the perfect timing!

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    You’re such a good mama! And this sauce looks to die for. I could just dive into that pot right now.

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    The meatballs would probably have ended up as little crumbly bits anyway in the hands of a little one. Nothing beats a good meat sauce…and…pasta. A nice penne rigate would have been my choice as well.

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    Scrumptious! I am a big fan of such pasta dishes.

    Cheers,

    Rosa

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    Oh dear – this looks killer. I think I’ve just found dinner for tonight… :) Maeve is getting so big!

  • February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    so making this…

  • Amy
    February 23, 2012 - | Permalink

    Zel’s seeming love and then complete hate for foods is very similar. Mealtimes are usually Zel sitting in his high chair pointing at the fridge saying “this.” I then try to figure out what “this” is by pulling various things out of the fridge and saying “do you want ____?” His response is usually no. The yes responses today were for coconut water and blueberries. Oh todderhood.

  • tanja
    February 24, 2012 - | Permalink

    us greeks really like our meat…(and this dish in particular is really popular to everyone)

  • February 24, 2012 - | Permalink

    Looks wonderful! I feel your pain. Sometimes I feel like I feed LT the same thing over and over again. I get so caught up in trying to prevent him from becoming a picky eater that I forget he’s only a year old!

  • February 26, 2012 - | Permalink

    Well look at her, she is all about the kima :)
    Glad you found something other than the meatballs. Some recipes are just way too long. I am sorry you did not get a hold of the recipe. As far as my family goes, my grandma sometimes does not give recipes either, because she makes it with “a little bit this, a little bit of that” attitude and does not follow, or have a recipe. So she acts like it is very secret:)

  • February 27, 2012 - | Permalink

    So glad you were able to find a substitute for the meatball recipe. It looks wonderful.

  • February 28, 2012 - | Permalink

    This sauce sounds delicious and I love thinking about a pot of it simmering for hours. Cincinnati has the famous Skyline chili that they serve over pasta which has cinnamon and allspice. We love it and I’m sure we’d love this!

  • February 28, 2012 - | Permalink

    I absolutely LOVE tomato sauce with cinnamon in it. It’s such a surprising ingredient. I love the sound of this with the pasta – it’s been ages since I’ve bought penne!

  • Stace3
    May 1, 2012 - | Permalink

    Just made this last night based on your recipe and instruction. It was a very nice change from our weeknight fallback pasta sauce. As a Seattleite that relocated to the midwest, mother of a 2 yr old, and home chef, I appreciate reading your blog for a number of reasons! I hope this blog continues to be a sucessful venture for you on many levels.

    • redmenace
      May 1, 2012 - | Permalink

      Stace,
      Thank you so much for your comment. I love hearing from other foodie mamas. I’m so glad you enjoyed the kima. We love it too! Did your wee one eat any? I hope do:)
      xo
      Robin

      • Stace3
        May 2, 2012 - | Permalink

        Yes he enjoyed it very much and I know my husband did as well. He went back for seconds and thirds. Again thank you for the excellent addition to my recipe library!

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